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| Enjoying the sun outside the store |
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| Waiting is half the fun |
Tuesday, 8 July 2014
#TDF Hits Town!
What a day July 5th turned out to be. Sun shining, happy crowds and smiling faces.
Despite the road being closed most of the day to cars AND pedestrians (!) we enjoyed seeing the riders go by at the end of the street.
It makes us very proud to be Yorkshire!
Wednesday, 2 July 2014
Sowing or Re-Seeding Your Lawn
For a new lawn good preparation is essential for success.
Remove all weeds, surface stones and rubbish. If you have used weedkiller to clear the weeds please read the instructions carefully and allow time for any residue to clear.
Dig or rotovate the soil to a depth of 15 - 22cm.
Create a level, firm surface by 'close treading', heel to heel or by using a roller over the whole area. Rake until the surface soil is fine.
If possible leave the area to settle for a few weeks. Level any uneven areas and keep it weed free.
To give the lawn a good start a pre-sowing fertilizer can be raked in at the rate suggested on the product.
Seed should not be sown until 5-7 days after the application of fertilizer.
Sowing the seed
The best time to sow is when the soil is warming up after rain.
Shake the box before sowing to get rid of any clumps that may have formed in storage, then sow half the seed along the area and the other half across the area. This helps to get an even coverage.. You can use a hand spreader or wheeled spreader if you have a large area to cover. These should have settings on them so they can be used for fertilizer and grass seed.
Remove all weeds, surface stones and rubbish. If you have used weedkiller to clear the weeds please read the instructions carefully and allow time for any residue to clear.
Dig or rotovate the soil to a depth of 15 - 22cm.
Create a level, firm surface by 'close treading', heel to heel or by using a roller over the whole area. Rake until the surface soil is fine.
If possible leave the area to settle for a few weeks. Level any uneven areas and keep it weed free.
To give the lawn a good start a pre-sowing fertilizer can be raked in at the rate suggested on the product.
Sowing the seed
The best time to sow is when the soil is warming up after rain.
Shake the box before sowing to get rid of any clumps that may have formed in storage, then sow half the seed along the area and the other half across the area. This helps to get an even coverage.. You can use a hand spreader or wheeled spreader if you have a large area to cover. These should have settings on them so they can be used for fertilizer and grass seed.
Sow the seed at a rate of 35g per square metre.
Rake in the seed. If no rain falls within 1 week water thoroughly with a fine spray. Too strong a spray will disturb the seed and wash it into drifts.
The sown area should be kept moist until the seed is well established. Young grass should appear within 14 -21 days.
Weeds are likely to appear, clear them carefully until they can be killed off with mowing.
Lawncare
If the weather is dry keep the soil moist with regular watering with a fine spray.
Keep off the lawn until the grass is 5 - 8 cm high.
The first cut can be done at this stage. It should be light cut, just 'topping' the grass. Subsequent cuts can then be gradually lowered to the recommended height for the type of lawn you have sown. For instance 'tough' lawn seed height recommendation is no lower than 25mm.
A good fertilizer should be applied at least once a year, following the manufacterers instructions to avoid scorching and over feeding.
Rake off any dead leaves and debris during the winter months.
Patch Repair
It's easy to get bald patches either from wear and tear or by moss clearing.
Loosen the surface of the soil by firmly raking in a criss-cross pattern.
level the soil and sow the seed as before. Sometimes it helps to incorporate seed with some compost to level things out and stop birds eating the seed.
Keep moist until the seed is established.
The best time to over-seed and help maintain and improve an established lawn in between September and early October. This allows good root establishment before winter.
Scarify with a scarifier or a lawn rake. Sow the seed at half the normal rate then lightly brush the lawn to ensure the seed is in contact with the soil.
Remember to choose the right seed for the lawn you want. Use tough lawn seed with ryegrass if you have family lawn where many a ball game is played. If you like a great looking lawn with stripes and never played on go for a 'Show' lawn seed with no ryegrass. There are also grass seeds for shady areas and for lawns that can cope with the occasional football match.
SHOW: chewings fescue, creeping red fescue and browntop bentgrass. Low Wear.
BETTER: Fine leafed ryegrass, chewings fescue and creeping red fescue. Good Wear.
TOUGH: Ryegrass and fescues. Good For Play Areas and Paths.
SHADY: Fescues, meadow grasses and bents. Good drought tolerance.
PATCH: Look for the relevant grass seed in the small patch repair packets.
With thanks to 'Mr Fothergill'.
Tuesday, 1 July 2014
Le Grand Depart Hits Ilkley
We at Mortens Hardware Store are preparing for what is anticipated to be a weekend that the likes of Yorkshire, and Ilkley in particular, has never seen before. Visitors from all over the world are expected to be in the tens of thousands. There are yellow bikes of every size to be spotted all along the route, yellow jerseys and flags are everywhere and people seem to be getting into the Tour De France mood. World Cup? You wouldn't think it was happening.
Some shops have decided to close for the Saturday but not Mortens. We'll be here in our yellow tee shirts with a shop full of bargains. We hope to see you here in Ilkley and Addingham. According to Radio 5 Addingham is the only village in the history of the Tour De France to have the race go through it twice! Go Yorkshire!
Some shops have decided to close for the Saturday but not Mortens. We'll be here in our yellow tee shirts with a shop full of bargains. We hope to see you here in Ilkley and Addingham. According to Radio 5 Addingham is the only village in the history of the Tour De France to have the race go through it twice! Go Yorkshire!
Thursday, 8 May 2014
Safe and Successful Barbeque Cooking
Most of us enjoy a barbeque - getting outside and cooking on hot coals with the aroma of lighter fluid drifting on the air. The smell of summer! We've put together a basic guide for safe and successful cooking on a BBQ - whether at home or out-and-about.
Position your BBQ away from foliage etc and away from strong draughts. There is nothing worse than being a guest downwind of a smoky BBQ! The Chef's comfort must be considered too - he (why is it mostly a he?) wants to cook with the smoke and flames blowing away from him, not into his face.
Use good quality charcoal/ briquettes that have been stored well and are dry. That half open sack in the back of the garden shed may not be a good idea if you want guaranteed lighting.
Clean your BBQ - get rid of the old ash from your last session. Open the dampers/vents.
Spray your piled coals with lighter fluid - or use something like Flamers ( a natural fire lighter made of wood shavings) if you don't like the smell of chemicals. There are also firelighters you can use - use enough and be patient.
Again be patient. The BBQ is ready when it has changed from a red glow in the middle to grey/ white all over. This should take about 30 minutes so you should warn your guests how long it will be before they can eat - they may have arrived hungry.
If you didn't clean your grill after the last session use a wire brush to get rid of the worst then put on the heat and let the BBQ do the rest. Your tools too should be clean but that goes without saying. Have oven gloves or an oven cloth ready to use to save the chef's fingers.
A discreet bucket of cold water close to the BBQ is a good idea ready to use and avert potential burns and other mishaps.
If this is a planned BBQ then the food etc will be already prepared. Keep it out of the sun and as cool as possible. To be truly safe maybe keep it in the kitchen until the BBQ is ready. Cover salads etc with cling film until people are ready to tuck in. Give the chef plenty of room to cook, a table specifically for this purpose is a must with plates ready for cooked food.
Soak your bamboo skewers in water a good 30 minutes before putting on the grill to cook or else your kebabs will just be little piles of cooked food.
If you're out-and-about you'll probably be using a disposable BBQ or a portable Lotus Go-Anywhere-Grill if you're keen. Be safe - choose your spot carefully away from bushes and long grass. If you are a true boy scout you could peel back a slice of turf and replace it when you've finished - and nobody will know you've been there. Dispose of the used BBQ sensibly - make sure it's cold and put it in a bin. Don't abandon it. Treat nature with respect .
Most important of all is to make sure the food is cooked. Especially with chicken if cooking it on the bone. Any sign of pink and it goes back on the grill or gets thrown in the bin, same for sausages Don't spoil a great BBQ by taking a risk.
Keep your garden tidy by keeping a glass bin and a rubbish bin within reach. Most guys drink beer straight from the bottle and you don't want to go out days later and find some empties in the flower bed or crown caps on the lawn!
If you've kids around get out the garden games. A putter and plastic golf balls (or proper golf balls if the grown-ups want to show off their prowess at getting a hole-in-one) for golf practice. Got an old tent in the attic? Get the kids to put it up for their own den. Football may not be conducive to undisturbed eating.
Use plastic glasses and disposable plates. Saves the washing up.
Position your BBQ away from foliage etc and away from strong draughts. There is nothing worse than being a guest downwind of a smoky BBQ! The Chef's comfort must be considered too - he (why is it mostly a he?) wants to cook with the smoke and flames blowing away from him, not into his face.
Use good quality charcoal/ briquettes that have been stored well and are dry. That half open sack in the back of the garden shed may not be a good idea if you want guaranteed lighting.
Clean your BBQ - get rid of the old ash from your last session. Open the dampers/vents.
Spray your piled coals with lighter fluid - or use something like Flamers ( a natural fire lighter made of wood shavings) if you don't like the smell of chemicals. There are also firelighters you can use - use enough and be patient.
Again be patient. The BBQ is ready when it has changed from a red glow in the middle to grey/ white all over. This should take about 30 minutes so you should warn your guests how long it will be before they can eat - they may have arrived hungry.
If you didn't clean your grill after the last session use a wire brush to get rid of the worst then put on the heat and let the BBQ do the rest. Your tools too should be clean but that goes without saying. Have oven gloves or an oven cloth ready to use to save the chef's fingers.
A discreet bucket of cold water close to the BBQ is a good idea ready to use and avert potential burns and other mishaps.
If this is a planned BBQ then the food etc will be already prepared. Keep it out of the sun and as cool as possible. To be truly safe maybe keep it in the kitchen until the BBQ is ready. Cover salads etc with cling film until people are ready to tuck in. Give the chef plenty of room to cook, a table specifically for this purpose is a must with plates ready for cooked food.
Soak your bamboo skewers in water a good 30 minutes before putting on the grill to cook or else your kebabs will just be little piles of cooked food.
If you're out-and-about you'll probably be using a disposable BBQ or a portable Lotus Go-Anywhere-Grill if you're keen. Be safe - choose your spot carefully away from bushes and long grass. If you are a true boy scout you could peel back a slice of turf and replace it when you've finished - and nobody will know you've been there. Dispose of the used BBQ sensibly - make sure it's cold and put it in a bin. Don't abandon it. Treat nature with respect .
Most important of all is to make sure the food is cooked. Especially with chicken if cooking it on the bone. Any sign of pink and it goes back on the grill or gets thrown in the bin, same for sausages Don't spoil a great BBQ by taking a risk.
Keep your garden tidy by keeping a glass bin and a rubbish bin within reach. Most guys drink beer straight from the bottle and you don't want to go out days later and find some empties in the flower bed or crown caps on the lawn!
If you've kids around get out the garden games. A putter and plastic golf balls (or proper golf balls if the grown-ups want to show off their prowess at getting a hole-in-one) for golf practice. Got an old tent in the attic? Get the kids to put it up for their own den. Football may not be conducive to undisturbed eating.
Use plastic glasses and disposable plates. Saves the washing up.
Thursday, 10 April 2014
Cleaning Windows - A few Tried and Tested Ways
We all know it's so much easier to pay a wondow cleaner but for those who love cleaning windows here are a few tips and tricks gathered from the Staff at Mortens.
Mrs T from Cookware swears there is no better way than to use a Skrim Cloth, good old fashioned Stardrops mixed with a bit of ammonia for a streak free finish. She's been using this method for years.
We must add a reminder to always check the labels because certain cleaning products should not be mixed!
Ms J from Housewares, one who always likes to save money, says never throw away old towels and face cloths because these plus simple water will clean and shine windows, mirrors and car windscreens. One wet, one dry. Just make sure the towels are clean to start with and do not have fabric conditioner on them. Old towels are good for polishing car bodywork after shampooing too.
She also says the use of old newspapers scrunched up works too. The printers ink is the trick in getting a streak free shine.
More recommendations will be added soon: Let us know yours if you would like them published on our Blog.
Mrs T from Cookware swears there is no better way than to use a Skrim Cloth, good old fashioned Stardrops mixed with a bit of ammonia for a streak free finish. She's been using this method for years.
We must add a reminder to always check the labels because certain cleaning products should not be mixed!
Ms J from Housewares, one who always likes to save money, says never throw away old towels and face cloths because these plus simple water will clean and shine windows, mirrors and car windscreens. One wet, one dry. Just make sure the towels are clean to start with and do not have fabric conditioner on them. Old towels are good for polishing car bodywork after shampooing too.
She also says the use of old newspapers scrunched up works too. The printers ink is the trick in getting a streak free shine.
More recommendations will be added soon: Let us know yours if you would like them published on our Blog.
Thursday, 23 January 2014
Dealing With Damp - A Check List
Some of the signs of damp:
1. Patches on the wall
2. Peeling wallpaper or paint
3. Musty smell
4. Black mould
5. Clothes in wardrobes appear to have mildew
Dealing with damp:
First and foremost - FIND THE CAUSE. If the patch is on an outside wall the usual culprit is either the roof or the gutters so check both. Something as simple as replacing a slipped slate will save you money in the future. Gutters should be cleaned out annually - and it needn't cost you a lot to have it done. Ask your window cleaner. Check that the gutters and downpipes drain correctly.
If it's under a window check around the frame for any broken or missing brickwork/ flashing.
The cause of damp patches on interior walls and ceilings can, most of the time, be traced to leaking shower trays, toilets or baths. You may have to get a plumber out to check if you don't feel confident enough to tackle the job yourself.
Once the cause is fixed you may have to wait for the patch to dry out to deal with it. You can do a small repair job or redecorate!
Clean the area behind the wallpaper and treat with 'dampseal' then reattach the wallpaper. For painted surfaces clean and apply 'damp seal' or any paint that will seal the area and allow for repainting.
If you've caught the interior leak in time you may get away without the need for re-plastering and just treat with 'damp seal' and repaint. If you need to re-plaster treat it as any new plaster.
The musty smell, once the cause is dealt with, should eventually disappear by ventilating and warming the room. In the meantime you could try Kontrol products that contain the scent of lavender. These products will help reduce the damage done to clothes in a cold wardrobe that is up against a north facing outside wall. Also good for cupboards etc. We have had experience of this in a house that is supposed to have cavity wall insulation and it only happens in one corner of the room so if you have cavity insulation, and this happens, it may mean getting it checked too.
It is vital you deal with black mould, as many people are susceptible to the spores, causing breathing and chest problems. First of all VENTILATION, this also goes for condensation as well. Open a window. Fit an air brick or extractor fan. Get the air moving in the room and check to see if you can warm the room a little better. Low and steady may be better than hot in bursts. It does sound crazy to suggest opening a window and increasing the heat but it's not necessarily at the same time!
Clean away the mould with diluted bleach or any product suitable for the task and throw away any cloths etc used. Allow to dry then keep your eye on the area to see if it returns. Retreat when/if necessary.
So remember:
FIND THE CAUSE AND FIX
VENTILATE
CHECK YOUR INSULATION
1. Patches on the wall
2. Peeling wallpaper or paint
3. Musty smell
4. Black mould
5. Clothes in wardrobes appear to have mildew
Dealing with damp:
First and foremost - FIND THE CAUSE. If the patch is on an outside wall the usual culprit is either the roof or the gutters so check both. Something as simple as replacing a slipped slate will save you money in the future. Gutters should be cleaned out annually - and it needn't cost you a lot to have it done. Ask your window cleaner. Check that the gutters and downpipes drain correctly.
If it's under a window check around the frame for any broken or missing brickwork/ flashing.
The cause of damp patches on interior walls and ceilings can, most of the time, be traced to leaking shower trays, toilets or baths. You may have to get a plumber out to check if you don't feel confident enough to tackle the job yourself.
Once the cause is fixed you may have to wait for the patch to dry out to deal with it. You can do a small repair job or redecorate!
Clean the area behind the wallpaper and treat with 'dampseal' then reattach the wallpaper. For painted surfaces clean and apply 'damp seal' or any paint that will seal the area and allow for repainting.
If you've caught the interior leak in time you may get away without the need for re-plastering and just treat with 'damp seal' and repaint. If you need to re-plaster treat it as any new plaster.
The musty smell, once the cause is dealt with, should eventually disappear by ventilating and warming the room. In the meantime you could try Kontrol products that contain the scent of lavender. These products will help reduce the damage done to clothes in a cold wardrobe that is up against a north facing outside wall. Also good for cupboards etc. We have had experience of this in a house that is supposed to have cavity wall insulation and it only happens in one corner of the room so if you have cavity insulation, and this happens, it may mean getting it checked too.
It is vital you deal with black mould, as many people are susceptible to the spores, causing breathing and chest problems. First of all VENTILATION, this also goes for condensation as well. Open a window. Fit an air brick or extractor fan. Get the air moving in the room and check to see if you can warm the room a little better. Low and steady may be better than hot in bursts. It does sound crazy to suggest opening a window and increasing the heat but it's not necessarily at the same time!
Clean away the mould with diluted bleach or any product suitable for the task and throw away any cloths etc used. Allow to dry then keep your eye on the area to see if it returns. Retreat when/if necessary.
So remember:
FIND THE CAUSE AND FIX
VENTILATE
CHECK YOUR INSULATION
Wednesday, 8 January 2014
Ladderlimb - And the Dragon's Dismissed It!
Morten Hardware have started stocking the ingenious device for those working up ladders - the Ladderlimb. It's such a simple idea, fitting in the side of the rungs on aluminium ladders so it can be used on either side. Remember the times you have been up the ladder with a paint can or a bucket and had to hold on to the ladder with just one hand? With this clever accessory you just hook on the paint can or bucket - or anything else you need to use such as a tool bag - which leaves your hands free for safer working. Watch this YouTube video and see how practical and useful the LadderLimb is.
This is definitely one the Dragon's let slip through their fingers.
This is definitely one the Dragon's let slip through their fingers.
Monday, 21 October 2013
End of an Era
It is with great sadness that we have to report that our founder, Mr Ralph William Morten passed away peacefully on the 15th October 2013 - one day away from the 76th anniversary of opening Yorkshire's Famous Hardware Store. He was the grand age of 101!
Whilst one era closes Mortens is now entering a new and exciting period of development. Work is underway over the next few months to complete a shop refit in our Housewares department. We're half way through now - with new displays and new computerised tills. Which means we'll be able to keep our stock up to date both in store and online. We're hoping to revamp our website as well but that will be in the near future. One step at a time!
The shop refit has been greeted, in the main, with approval from our customers. Of one thing you can be reassured though - the Hardware department, with it's quirky rooms and wooden counter complete with little wooden drawers - will remain as it is. Mortens wouldn't be Mortens without that 'look'.
So we look forward to seeing our customers, old and new, in our new look Housewares. Modern look but still old fashioned service.
Whilst one era closes Mortens is now entering a new and exciting period of development. Work is underway over the next few months to complete a shop refit in our Housewares department. We're half way through now - with new displays and new computerised tills. Which means we'll be able to keep our stock up to date both in store and online. We're hoping to revamp our website as well but that will be in the near future. One step at a time!
The shop refit has been greeted, in the main, with approval from our customers. Of one thing you can be reassured though - the Hardware department, with it's quirky rooms and wooden counter complete with little wooden drawers - will remain as it is. Mortens wouldn't be Mortens without that 'look'.
So we look forward to seeing our customers, old and new, in our new look Housewares. Modern look but still old fashioned service.
Thursday, 6 June 2013
Mortens Supplies The Tools - Part 1 (Garden Bench Rescue)
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| Both sides given a good squirt of WD40 |
There was no way these bolts would budge despite chipping away old paint and rust. Looks as though they will have to be removed with a saw.
Next thing on the list is a saw with the capability of going through metal.
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| Roughneck - helps get the rust and old paint off |
Will let you know how the Garden Bench Rescue goes on in Part 2.
Please note : This poor bench looks fated to not be completed due to the fact it's renovator is planning to retire! Needless to say she (yes she!) is going to paint the cast iron in black Hammerite, purchase teak struts for it and new bolts and put it all back together again. Whether this makes the Blog we will have to wait and see. Thanks for reading.
Thursday, 9 May 2013
Sabatier - A Very Brief Explanation
At Mortens we are frequently asked for Sabatier Knives. Many people still believe that there is such a thing. 'Sabatier' actually implies a high quality knife but is not a knife in itself.
The history dates back to the nineteenth century when two families, both named Sabatier but seemingly not related, manufactured knives in the Thiers area of France; Jean Sabatier of Le Moutier in lower Thiers and Phillipe Sabatier of Bellevue in upper Thiers so they both used their names to describe their knives. That is how the confusion began and goes on to the present day - though knives from Le Moutier seem to have got the upper hand.
An association was formed in 1979 to protect the Sabatier Brand. Manufacturers today cannot use the Sabatier name without being registered and using it with another word etc such as Stellar Sabatier. Only knives manfactured in Thiers are now regarded as 'genuine' Sabatier.
The history dates back to the nineteenth century when two families, both named Sabatier but seemingly not related, manufactured knives in the Thiers area of France; Jean Sabatier of Le Moutier in lower Thiers and Phillipe Sabatier of Bellevue in upper Thiers so they both used their names to describe their knives. That is how the confusion began and goes on to the present day - though knives from Le Moutier seem to have got the upper hand.
An association was formed in 1979 to protect the Sabatier Brand. Manufacturers today cannot use the Sabatier name without being registered and using it with another word etc such as Stellar Sabatier. Only knives manfactured in Thiers are now regarded as 'genuine' Sabatier.
Monday, 11 March 2013
Using a Microwave Multi- Steamer
Rice
1. Put rice in basket and position in multi-steamer base
2. Add boiling water, cover with lid and cook on full power
3. Stir half way through cooking time and add a little water if necessary
4. Allow 2 mins standing time, rinse with boiling water and serve
Easy cook and Basmati: Cooking time 11 minutes - stir after 5 mins
125g/4oz = 600ml/1 pint boiling water
250g (8oz) = 900ml (1½ pints) boiling water
Long Grain: Cooking time 12 minutes - stir after 6 mins
125g (4oz) = 700ml (1¼ pints) boiling water
250g (8oz) = 1000ml (1¾ pints) boiling water
Brown Rice: Cooking Time 16 minutes - stir after 8 & 12 minutes
125g (4oz) = 700ml (1¼ pints) boiling water
250g (8oz) = 1000ml (1¾ pints) boiling water
(Times for 650 watt microwave - please adjust times to suit)
Noodles:
Place dry noodles in the multi-steamer basket, cover with boiling water and cook on full power for 2 minutes. Stand for further 2 mins then drain.
Green Vegetables:
Put a small amount of water (4-5 tablespoons) below the steamer basket. Place vegetables in basket, cover with lid and cook on full power. Most green vegetables will cook in 3 - 5 minutes, the correct timings will come with practice.
Other Vegetables: (potatoes, carrots, parsnips, swedes, turnips etc)
Cut into similar size pieces and place in steamer basket. Add water until the base of the basket is just covered and cook on full power turning half way through cooking time. Hard vegetables will take significantly longer time to cook so check your microwave instructions for times.
A comprehensive range of microwave ware is available online from
www.mortensofilkley.co.uk
1. Put rice in basket and position in multi-steamer base
2. Add boiling water, cover with lid and cook on full power
3. Stir half way through cooking time and add a little water if necessary
4. Allow 2 mins standing time, rinse with boiling water and serve
Easy cook and Basmati: Cooking time 11 minutes - stir after 5 mins
125g/4oz = 600ml/1 pint boiling water
250g (8oz) = 900ml (1½ pints) boiling water
Long Grain: Cooking time 12 minutes - stir after 6 mins
125g (4oz) = 700ml (1¼ pints) boiling water
250g (8oz) = 1000ml (1¾ pints) boiling water
Brown Rice: Cooking Time 16 minutes - stir after 8 & 12 minutes
125g (4oz) = 700ml (1¼ pints) boiling water
250g (8oz) = 1000ml (1¾ pints) boiling water
(Times for 650 watt microwave - please adjust times to suit)
Noodles:
Place dry noodles in the multi-steamer basket, cover with boiling water and cook on full power for 2 minutes. Stand for further 2 mins then drain.
Green Vegetables:
Put a small amount of water (4-5 tablespoons) below the steamer basket. Place vegetables in basket, cover with lid and cook on full power. Most green vegetables will cook in 3 - 5 minutes, the correct timings will come with practice.
Other Vegetables: (potatoes, carrots, parsnips, swedes, turnips etc)
Cut into similar size pieces and place in steamer basket. Add water until the base of the basket is just covered and cook on full power turning half way through cooking time. Hard vegetables will take significantly longer time to cook so check your microwave instructions for times.
A comprehensive range of microwave ware is available online from
www.mortensofilkley.co.uk
Thursday, 28 February 2013
Which Glass for What Drink?
In the store we are frequently asked ' have you any claret glasses?' or 'glasses for sherry please'. We thought it might be of help to show the shapes of glasses available and the drinks associated with them.
Beer Glasses - from the traditional dimpled and handled tankard to the modern plain straight sided. The glass with the rounded top edge makes its easier to grip. You may find this interesting about the shape of your beer glass
Liqueur Glasses - long stemmed, small bowl. Designed for strong drinks that need to be sipped slowly, unheated by the hand and all the aroma kept within the glass
Red Wine Glasses - stemmed with large bowl. Red wine glasses come in a variety of bowl sizes - some taking up to a whole bottle so please be aware when you say 'I only had one glass!' Red wine glasses are rounder and wider to increase the rate of oxidation. As oxygen chemically reacts with the wine it is subtly changed allowing you to savour its complex flavours. The stem keeps the heat from your fingers away from the bowl.
The difference between Bordeaux and Burgundy Glasses is where, on the tongue, the wine touches with each sip.
Shot Glasses: Small, with a capacity of about 25-50ml. Designed for drinks downed in one gulp. Trend is moving more towards using them for starters as a 'taster' of various dishes.
Water glass - plain, simple and large and should best be provided for those who like water and to help dilute any other alcohol offered during a meal.
White wine glasses - smaller that those for red wine and narrower at the top to reduce oxidation. If it is a sparkling wine it helps keep it sparkling longer.
Brandy glasses: Short stemmed with large bowl to sit in the hand traditionally so that the heat from the hand warms the brandy and lets the flavour and aroma develop.
Claret Glass - similar to liqueur glasses
Lager Glass: Tall and slender with a slight flare. Research has shown that those people drinking lager from a straight glass drink slower and therefore drink less than using the traditional fluted glass.
Champagne Flute: Tall and slim with narrow bowl designed to keep the carbonation going for longer. This glass, in comparison with the old style champagne glass, is also more esthetically pleasing as the bubbles gently move up the glass.
Whisky Glass: Short tumbler designed for malt whisky either neat or made into a longer drink. Experts say that a true whisky can only be appreciated when drunk from a tulip shaped glass which you cannot buy from an average shop. So stick to the tumbler.
Sherry Glass: Instantly recognisable by its elongated tulip shape. The larger glass in this style is called a schooner. You can also serve sherry in a liqueur glass.
Margarita Glass:Some say it's designed like this to represent an upside down sombero. There is no definitive explanation to why it has the dip in the centre. It is agreed that its wide rim allows the salt edge to last as you turn the glass with each sip.
Cocktail/Martini Glass: The wide rim allows the display of garnish etc. It's agred it just looks good to be this shape.
The difference between Bordeaux and Burgundy Glasses is where, on the tongue, the wine touches with each sip.
Lager Glass: Tall and slender with a slight flare. Research has shown that those people drinking lager from a straight glass drink slower and therefore drink less than using the traditional fluted glass.
Thursday, 31 January 2013
What Size Brush For What Paint Job?
Thanks to Harris for this info
12mm small window frames,picture frames and intricate areas
18mm small window frames, picture frames etc
25mm window frames and doors
37mm skirting boards and furniture
50mm doors
62mm radiators, door panels and a good size for cutting in before using a roller
75mm garage doors
100mm walls, ceilings and large flat areas
12mm small window frames,picture frames and intricate areas
18mm small window frames, picture frames etc
25mm window frames and doors
37mm skirting boards and furniture
50mm doors
62mm radiators, door panels and a good size for cutting in before using a roller
75mm garage doors
100mm walls, ceilings and large flat areas
Thursday, 17 January 2013
New To Decorating? Don't Know What to Buy?
For those of you who come to painting and decorating as complete novices we thought we'd start by giving you a list of the basics you may need for successful decorating. We're not saying it's definitive but it's what we've used ourselves over the years and would recommend to any of our customers.
The Basics
Painting woodwork including doors, windows and skirtings
paint brushes - 12mm to 50mm
masking tape (for painting glass panelled doors etc)
brush cleaning tub (or any plastic tub deep enough)
brush cleaner
sandpaper for preparation (all grades, you'll need them for removing old paint and smoothing)
dust sheets
safety glasses (not absolutely necessary but get paint in your eye and you'll know about it!)
paint stripper if you're repainting
primer if it's new wood
knotting (if it's new wood you'll need to seal any knots to stop them bleeding through)
scraper if you're removing paint - 2 sizes depending on whether it's a flat surface such as a door or narrow such as a window frame
overalls or a paint apron (again not absolutely necessary if you have 'scruffs' for doing DIY in - but the pockets come in handy)
You'll also need step ladders, rags, something to open paint tins with (NOT a kitchen knife) and patience.
The Basics
For Wallpapering
Pasting table - make sure it's sturdy and easy to wipe down
Pasting brush
Bucket
Wallpaper brush - for smoothing out air bubbles etc
Seam roller - not absolutely vital but a handy tool
Wallpapering scissors - not just household scissors, they have a longer bade and are sharper
Plumb line
Pencil or china graph pencil - you'll find you'll need to mark the pasting table for long lengths of paper
Again you'll need decent safe steps or step ladders, plenty of rags for quick wipe up of spills etc and an apron with pockets because there's nothing more annoying than getting to the top of the step ladder to find you've forgotten the wallpapering brush or you need a cloth quickly. If there's any old wooden spoons in the kitchen drawer don't throw them away - they make great paste stirrers.
That's about it. The rest is up to you. If you ned any more advice or help just email us and we'll get back to you post haste - or should that be paste haste!
The Basics
Painting woodwork including doors, windows and skirtings
paint brushes - 12mm to 50mm
masking tape (for painting glass panelled doors etc)
brush cleaning tub (or any plastic tub deep enough)
brush cleaner
sandpaper for preparation (all grades, you'll need them for removing old paint and smoothing)
dust sheets
safety glasses (not absolutely necessary but get paint in your eye and you'll know about it!)
paint stripper if you're repainting
primer if it's new wood
knotting (if it's new wood you'll need to seal any knots to stop them bleeding through)
scraper if you're removing paint - 2 sizes depending on whether it's a flat surface such as a door or narrow such as a window frame
overalls or a paint apron (again not absolutely necessary if you have 'scruffs' for doing DIY in - but the pockets come in handy)
You'll also need step ladders, rags, something to open paint tins with (NOT a kitchen knife) and patience.
The Basics
For Wallpapering
Pasting table - make sure it's sturdy and easy to wipe down
Pasting brush
Bucket
Wallpaper brush - for smoothing out air bubbles etc
Seam roller - not absolutely vital but a handy tool
Wallpapering scissors - not just household scissors, they have a longer bade and are sharper
Plumb line
Pencil or china graph pencil - you'll find you'll need to mark the pasting table for long lengths of paper
Again you'll need decent safe steps or step ladders, plenty of rags for quick wipe up of spills etc and an apron with pockets because there's nothing more annoying than getting to the top of the step ladder to find you've forgotten the wallpapering brush or you need a cloth quickly. If there's any old wooden spoons in the kitchen drawer don't throw them away - they make great paste stirrers.
That's about it. The rest is up to you. If you ned any more advice or help just email us and we'll get back to you post haste - or should that be paste haste!
Thursday, 22 November 2012
How to Hang Wallpaper
Take a look at this if you need help. There are just a few things to remember if you're new to wallpapering.
1: Buy enough to cope with mistakes
2: If you go for a patterned wallpaper - check the size of the 'Repeat'. There's nothing more annoying to cut the length only to find you've cut it in the wrong place for the pattern to match. (Been there. Done that.)
3. Always read the instructions that go with your particular paper. Some papers can't cope with being left too long for the paste to soak in and may tear if mishandled.
4: Get your equipment ready before you do anything else. Sharp scissors, plenty of clean cloths,long enough pasting table, etc
5: Stand back and enjoy the finished product when it's dry.
How to Hang Wallpaper
1: Buy enough to cope with mistakes
2: If you go for a patterned wallpaper - check the size of the 'Repeat'. There's nothing more annoying to cut the length only to find you've cut it in the wrong place for the pattern to match. (Been there. Done that.)
3. Always read the instructions that go with your particular paper. Some papers can't cope with being left too long for the paste to soak in and may tear if mishandled.
4: Get your equipment ready before you do anything else. Sharp scissors, plenty of clean cloths,long enough pasting table, etc
5: Stand back and enjoy the finished product when it's dry.
How to Hang Wallpaper
Wednesday, 24 October 2012
Christmas Pudding Recipe From Morten's Kitchen
A recipe that must be at least 20 years old. Hope you like it.
½lb currants
½lb sultanas
½lb raisins
2 oz candied peel
6 oz suet
6 oz self Raising Flour or 4 oz S.R.Flour and 2 oz ground almonds
½ teaspoon each of mixed spice and ground nutmeg
8 oz brown Sugar or 6 oz brown sugar and 1 tablespoon black treacle
8 oz bread crumbs
rind and juice of a lemon
2 large eggs or 3 medium (recipe states 2½ eggs!)- beaten
½ pint rum or try Guiness or Stout
6 tablespoons milk
Combine the fruit with the rum or stout and soak overnight.
Put all the ingredients a in a mixing bowl and add the beaten eggs and place in the size (s) of pudding basins you need for Christmas. The recipe does not give any steaming times but, from memory, it would have been about 8 hours for a 1lb pudding then reheated on the day for 2 hours.
If you are going to use a pressure cooker check your instructions for cooking times.
To save washing up why not use foil puddings basins like the ones done by Caroline?
½lb currants
½lb sultanas
½lb raisins
2 oz candied peel
6 oz suet
6 oz self Raising Flour or 4 oz S.R.Flour and 2 oz ground almonds
½ teaspoon each of mixed spice and ground nutmeg
8 oz brown Sugar or 6 oz brown sugar and 1 tablespoon black treacle
8 oz bread crumbs
rind and juice of a lemon
2 large eggs or 3 medium (recipe states 2½ eggs!)- beaten
½ pint rum or try Guiness or Stout
6 tablespoons milk
Combine the fruit with the rum or stout and soak overnight.
Put all the ingredients a in a mixing bowl and add the beaten eggs and place in the size (s) of pudding basins you need for Christmas. The recipe does not give any steaming times but, from memory, it would have been about 8 hours for a 1lb pudding then reheated on the day for 2 hours.
If you are going to use a pressure cooker check your instructions for cooking times.
To save washing up why not use foil puddings basins like the ones done by Caroline?
Monday, 15 October 2012
Bosch Indego Automatic Lawnmower
This is advance warning of an outbreak of lawn laziness! Gone will be the days of looking out and dreading getting the mower out, because you won't have to.
Bosch are introducing the Indego - and automatic lawnmower with Intelligent LogiCut Navigation - think of it! Look out and see the lawn has been cut without a drop of sweat or effort on your part. Even stripes! Just set up the perimeter wire around the lawn and it will map out your garden and calculate the most efficicient route to mow.
Now here's a few details for those of you who want to know the nitty gritty:
Power - 32 V/3.0 Ah
Cutting width - 12 in
Charging time - 70 mins
Running time - 22 mins
Coverage per charge - 160 square metres
Memory - 8mb
Alarm - yes
Auto Charging Function
No Base Station stop/Home Functions
HMI - Human Machine Interface
Tactile Sensors, floating shell set up and designed engineered wheels
Ergonomic height of cut dial and manual stop button
2 years parts and labour guarantee
The price seems to be around £1400 at the moment. Mortens will get one as soon as they are in the country! Nothing to stop you pre-ordering though. Just email us at mortens@btconnect.com for more details.
Bosch are introducing the Indego - and automatic lawnmower with Intelligent LogiCut Navigation - think of it! Look out and see the lawn has been cut without a drop of sweat or effort on your part. Even stripes! Just set up the perimeter wire around the lawn and it will map out your garden and calculate the most efficicient route to mow.
Now here's a few details for those of you who want to know the nitty gritty:
Power - 32 V/3.0 Ah
Cutting width - 12 in
Charging time - 70 mins
Running time - 22 mins
Coverage per charge - 160 square metres
Memory - 8mb
Alarm - yes
Auto Charging Function
No Base Station stop/Home Functions
HMI - Human Machine Interface
Tactile Sensors, floating shell set up and designed engineered wheels
Ergonomic height of cut dial and manual stop button
2 years parts and labour guarantee
The price seems to be around £1400 at the moment. Mortens will get one as soon as they are in the country! Nothing to stop you pre-ordering though. Just email us at mortens@btconnect.com for more details.
Tuesday, 9 October 2012
Central Heating System Inhibitor
Does your central heating system make some strange noises? Do your radiators heat up at the top but never at the bottom? Could be your radiators are full of corrosion and scale which reduce their efficiency and the gas given off can cause knocking and rattling.
But don't give up. You could attempt the job yourself if you have a medium skill level and a good friend. To be really thorough you should remove each radiator, drain out the rubbish inside it in the garden then flush through with the hosepipe. A mucky job but think of the money you're saving. To flush a central heating system can cost £600+.
When you've done each radiator and refilled the system then put in system inhibitor in the header tank and enjoy a warmer (and quieter) winter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BI3S8B7f_vY go to this link for a visual and helpful tutorial
Mortens stock system inhibitor online and in store.
But don't give up. You could attempt the job yourself if you have a medium skill level and a good friend. To be really thorough you should remove each radiator, drain out the rubbish inside it in the garden then flush through with the hosepipe. A mucky job but think of the money you're saving. To flush a central heating system can cost £600+.
When you've done each radiator and refilled the system then put in system inhibitor in the header tank and enjoy a warmer (and quieter) winter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BI3S8B7f_vY go to this link for a visual and helpful tutorial
Mortens stock system inhibitor online and in store.
Tuesday, 25 September 2012
Don't Over Soak!
Many of you probably know this, but if like me you don't, you can save wear and tear on your dishes by NOT over soaking them.
Porcelain, terracotta, stoneware, ceramics - what ever your dish is made from the trick is to leave water in the dish if you need to and not leave it fully immersed. Dishes can absorb water, especially if they have any unglazed areas, so the dish will look dry when you come to use it next but there may be a chance that as soon as it is placed in the oven the absorbed water expands and you run the risk of cracking it. Have you ever discovered the glazing has crazed? This may be one of the causes.
The other is placing the dish into cold water while it's still hot. That funny faint crackling sound is the glaze breaking.
So leave to soak with water IN the cooled dish and leave it to dry propped up and you'll find it will last longer.
Porcelain, terracotta, stoneware, ceramics - what ever your dish is made from the trick is to leave water in the dish if you need to and not leave it fully immersed. Dishes can absorb water, especially if they have any unglazed areas, so the dish will look dry when you come to use it next but there may be a chance that as soon as it is placed in the oven the absorbed water expands and you run the risk of cracking it. Have you ever discovered the glazing has crazed? This may be one of the causes.
The other is placing the dish into cold water while it's still hot. That funny faint crackling sound is the glaze breaking.
So leave to soak with water IN the cooled dish and leave it to dry propped up and you'll find it will last longer.
Thursday, 16 August 2012
Marrow Chutney
This recipe has been copied from an old recipe note book belonging to my mother. As with all her recipes it seems to have evolved over the years. I will give you her changes and leave you to make your own mind up.
Drain off liquid from the marrow. Mix lump sugar, turmeric and shallots (though she hasn't written it, take it that they are chopped) and chillies in the vinegar ( again personally I'd leave the chillies whole) and boil for 10 minutes. Add marrow and boil for further 20 minutes and put into jars.
Again, though she hasn't written it I'd leave the chutney a while before eating. If I remember correctly it will keep for months though it was so delicious it never lasted long enough! Wonderful with Cornish Pasties straight from the oven.
1986: 4 lbs marrow, 12 small onions,2 pints vinegar, 8oz sugar,½ teaspoon chilli powder,1 level teaspoon ginger, 12 peppercorns,1oz turmeric.
1989: 1 marrow, 6 shallots, ½oz turmeric, 6 tsp curry powder, 2 pints vinegar,½lb sugar and chillies
1993: 5 lbs marrow,12 oz sugar, 6 chillies,½ teaspoon curry powder, 6 small onions, 1oz turmeric and cornflour to thicken it. Vinegar must be the same as before.
2002: 4 lbs marrow, 6 large shallots,6 birds eye chillies, teaspoon curry powder, 1oz turmeric, 2 pints vinegar, 12 peppercorns, 10oz sugar
Working from memory I think the chillies were left whole then removed before putting into jars. The marrow was always in ½"/ 2.5 cm chunks and never too soft to be unpleasant. How much was actually made in each batch I never knew but it was always in big Jam Jars or in earthenware brown jars.
All I can say is, do try it and 'make it your own'. It's a gorgeous golden colour due to the turmeric and spicy. Even marrow haters ought to try it.
- 2 firm marrows chunked , sprinkled with salt and left to stand overnight
- 2 quarts of vinegar
- 1lb lump sugar
- 1oz turmeric
- about 6 shallots
- a few chillies to taste
Drain off liquid from the marrow. Mix lump sugar, turmeric and shallots (though she hasn't written it, take it that they are chopped) and chillies in the vinegar ( again personally I'd leave the chillies whole) and boil for 10 minutes. Add marrow and boil for further 20 minutes and put into jars.
Again, though she hasn't written it I'd leave the chutney a while before eating. If I remember correctly it will keep for months though it was so delicious it never lasted long enough! Wonderful with Cornish Pasties straight from the oven.
1986: 4 lbs marrow, 12 small onions,2 pints vinegar, 8oz sugar,½ teaspoon chilli powder,1 level teaspoon ginger, 12 peppercorns,1oz turmeric.
1989: 1 marrow, 6 shallots, ½oz turmeric, 6 tsp curry powder, 2 pints vinegar,½lb sugar and chillies
1993: 5 lbs marrow,12 oz sugar, 6 chillies,½ teaspoon curry powder, 6 small onions, 1oz turmeric and cornflour to thicken it. Vinegar must be the same as before.
2002: 4 lbs marrow, 6 large shallots,6 birds eye chillies, teaspoon curry powder, 1oz turmeric, 2 pints vinegar, 12 peppercorns, 10oz sugar
Working from memory I think the chillies were left whole then removed before putting into jars. The marrow was always in ½"/ 2.5 cm chunks and never too soft to be unpleasant. How much was actually made in each batch I never knew but it was always in big Jam Jars or in earthenware brown jars.
All I can say is, do try it and 'make it your own'. It's a gorgeous golden colour due to the turmeric and spicy. Even marrow haters ought to try it.
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